If you want to do the job right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and really see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
Second, you have to eliminate copper fouling. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleansing rods.
Remove the brush, tube it down once again, and put it aside to dry. Rub out the cleansing rod with a paper towel. Take your patch rod, and put three solvent restore the bore. The last one should come out almost white. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or just a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and swellings and streaks, it's back to the J-B.
If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent patch up the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, but if it has green or blue spots, back to the J-B.
Now, some general notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a guideline, the more you spend on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. But every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do break-in procedures work? I question it. I have actually had a couple of cases where a barrel all of a sudden began to group as I reached the end of the procedure, but I have actually had far more burglaries that made no difference at all.
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They work, often, but if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but excellent, and considering that I'm at the age where I forget things, I hesitate to take the chance. Also, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend on their guns going bang. They desire them spotless. And immaculate is a great way to go.
The actions to properly clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or complete disassembly. We'll cover fundamental field stripping in this article. Due to the range of rifles, complete disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this article. This is the most essential step in the entire cleaning procedure.
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, and eliminate any loose particles that might be discovered within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
One common myth is that more is better when it concerns lubrication of your firearm. You desire to properly lubricate where needed, however too much can cause excessive residues, which can cause malfunctions and managing issues (slippery). Oiling cloths are an exceptional tool since they assist control the quantity of oil/lubrication being utilized in any provided location of your gun.
The procedure is basic. Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. (Keep in mind, keep your barrel secured or pointed down to prevent any solvent collecting near the actionsee Step 1.) Enable it to sit, and keep in mind that getting rid of copper can take a while.
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If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit again, and repeat. If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit once again and repeat. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of speak about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.
What you do not want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. As soon as you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of patches that have actually been wet with a routine cleansing solvent. Run three or 4 dry patches down the bore to get rid of any remaining solvent.